As much as I enjoy living in Japan, there is one thing about it that I find very hard to enjoy: Japanese summer. Sure, Japanese festivals are nice, and summer treats are pleasant, but with the overbearing summer heat looming over everything, it makes it extremely hard to enjoy much of anything! Luckily, as summer is coming to a close and the weather beginning to cool, autumn is approaching. Along with this, one of the things I enjoy very much about Japan can be seen: the autumn leaves! Though a little early for the leaves to change completely, we decided upon a trip to beautiful Nikko!

As we ventured to the station to hop a train to our destination, we found that the lines were all shut down. The previous day, Japan had been hit by a harsh typhoon that caused damage throughout the country. Luckily for us there was a bus leaving for Nikko in a few minutes, so we quickly headed to the stop to board the bus and settled in for the hour and a half trip up the mountain.

After arriving at Nikko station we exited the bus and saw that there were still remnants of the aftermath of the typhoon, with pine needles scattered around and even some trees bent over sideways (not completely blown over, but noticeably affected). Despite this, everything else seemed to be absolutely fine. In addition, it was an astoundingly gorgeous day!

The sun shone brightly, the skies were a crystal blue, a gentle breeze blew from time to time, and the mountain air was crisp and refreshing. Along with all of this there were very few people in the area (likely due to the typhoon and the rail line being closed). In any case, the rare circumstance allowed for an opportunity to really take in the surroundings undisturbed.

Before truly starting our exploring, we decided to have some lunch. We walked around to see what our options were until we decided up on a nice little café called Earthens. The charming, simple atmosphere was quite inviting, and we happily took a seat facing the street. Kamonegi-don (duck and green onions over rice) would be our choice of meal, along with a coffee for dessert. As we waited for our meal we admired the view from our seats, once again taking in the good weather and continuing to be surprised at how peaceful it was.

Our food soon arrived, accompanied by some vegetables and cup of tea. The main dish was full of savory goodness (I always appreciate when duck is prepared properly), and the tea was a nice addition. The coffee afterwards was also refreshing. The café had provided some brown sugar for our drink, which gave the coffee a nicely added bit if sweetness (this is coming from someone who normally takes their coffee black).

When we were ready to leave the café, we headed to the station to board a bus that would take us further up the mountain. There are a few option as far a bus passes, but we decided on one that would take us fairly far up (costing us about $26). Tickets in hand, we boarded the bus and made our way up.

In order to go up the mountain, we had to take the road known as Irohazaka, the name of which is a combination of ‘Iroha’ (a Japanese poem that contains each of the syllables in the Japanese language once (48 total)) and ‘saka’ meaning slope. The road was named for the fact that it contains exactly 48 curves.

The ride may have been a little lengthy, but it did allow us to appreciate the nature around us. Some of the leaves were even beginning to change for autumn. We also caught a glimpse of Chuzenji lake, which coupled with the lush green mountain side made for a stunning view.

Going as far as our passes would take us we disembarked the bus at Senjyougahara (which translates to ‘battlefield’, referring to a battle between 2 gods). Immediately we were struck by the gorgeous surroundings striking at our senses, encompassed by the natural beauty. We wandered for a bit, taking in the sights. There were nature trails, as well as an observation deck overlooking the moor. Despite the long ride up the mountain, the destination more than made up for it. Viewing the moor with the setting sun and breathing in the brisk mountain air, a peaceful sensation began circulating throughout relaxing mind and body, taking in the serene image before us.

After we had our fill, we walked back towards the previous bus stop, following along the path adjacent to the moor. As the sun was beginning to set, the filed glowed with reds and whites. As we walked the colors became deeper, and it became captivating to the point that we had to stop several times simply to admire it.

A bit further down the mountain we came upon a walking path, potentially leading through the moor. Though we were loosing daylight, we decided to take a quick glance. The greens and browns of the forest coupled with a constantly flowing creek and a small wooden bridge painted a fairy tale like atmosphere, a sense of awe inspired natural beauty. Though we would find the path through the moor closed off (likely due to the typhoon), it did not take away from our enjoyment of the surroundings.

The lack of sunlight, however, was beginning to create a chill in the air, indicating that we could not stay out for much longer. Despite the cold, we did stay a bit longer to admire the forest before retiring for the day.

The next morning we set out to see more of the sights, but not before admiring Lake Chuzenji again. The weather was not as good as the previous day, but we did have more time to stop and enjoy it as oppose to passing by on bus. The view of the lake with the mountain backdrop was lovely, especially with the calming ebb and flow of the water hitting the shore. Beautiful as it was, the setting isn’t exactly a place I’d like to find myself at alone (or perhaps I’ve watched too many horror films). Our bus soon came, and our adventure continued.

Our first stop was Ryuzu no taki (Dragon Head Falls). The sound of the falls could be immediately heard as we got off the bus, and the foliage continued to accent everything around. Many tourists had come to view the falls, and there was no shortage of vantage points. From below, straight on, along, there were several areas from which to enjoy. The main viewing area was arguably the best however, with branches arching over the falls, leaves in the youth of their transformation into autumn colors, a constant flow of water rushing underneath. I imagine it would become more and more striking as the season continued, the color of the leaves becoming deeper and deeper.

The weather being less sunny than the previous day, it became necessary to take a rest to have something warm to recharge. Deciding to stop at a local café, we came upon a location by the lake called Toki. The accommodations were cozy, the view was nice, and once the coffee came the relaxing experience was only enhanced. Though the trip was not over, there seemed no need to rush this moment. We took our time, enjoying the drink and ambiance.

Energized from the rest and warm drink, it was time to head out again. Though we had already seen Ryuzu Falls, there was another waterfall Nikko was known for: Kegon Falls.

Walking towards the main sight, we could hear the familiar sound of rushing water similar to that which we heard earlier, though this time a mist could also be seen as we drew closer. In contrast to Ryuzu Falls, Kegon is much grander in scale, and requires the purchase of a ticket to take an elevator (and a tunnel) to reach the viewing spot.

Taking the elevator down to the tunnels we followed the crowd of people towards the ends. Reaching the opening, we could witness the falls in their remarkable beauty. Not only were the falls immense, but adding ascending mist, deep green moss-covered rocks towering the sides, smaller falls accenting the larger one, and roaring white rapids below, we found ourselves in the middle of a deeply breathtaking sight.

Admiring the falls, we could feel the sensation of water touch our faces, though it was not from the falls themselves. Realizing it would soon begin to rain we decided that it would be best to start heading back to the station, and commence our return home. Though our trip would be ending soon, having had such a grand experience during this trip, I am assured that this will not be the last venture to Nikko.